The Homestead: America's First Resort (2024)

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As a longtime patron of Omni Hotels, the Homestead Resort in Hot Springs, Virginia, has been on my to-go list since they acquired the property in 2013. I appreciate the hotel group’s custodianship of beautiful resorts often on the National Trust for Historic Preservation and recognized by the Historic Hotels of America, both of which the Homestead are. We were finally able to visit for a few days this past summer and were pampered at the spa, lounged by the lazy river, golfed a round on the Old Course, and ate and drank quite well. It was a lovely grown-up getaway, but it is also a family friendly resort.

The Homestead has been dubbed “America’s First Resort” since the earliest lodge was built onsite in 1766 around the hot springs (even pre-dating the nearby Greenbrier by twenty years). In 1832, Dr. Thomas Goode purchased land in the rolling hills of Virginia’s Allegheny Mountains to create a medicinal spa modeled after European-style hydrotherapy, Guests have been “taking the waters” at the Homestead ever since. The property again changed hands in 1888, when J.P. Morgan and other investors purchased the resort to build a magnificent new luxury hotel. Sadly, in 1901 a fire started in the pastry shop, burning the entire building to the ground. Not to be deterred, Morgan and the investors committed to rebuilding the Homestead. In the early twentieth century, Federalist architecture underwent a revival, so it was immediately rebuilt in the stately red brick Georgian style we see today.

The approach to the Homestead is extremely striking! We arrived after navigating narrow mountain roads down into the valley, where the Grand Dame’s great tower emerged from the surrounding hills. The 256-year old historic hotel lays claim to the title of “Oldest Resort in America,”and is now undergoing a much-needed facelift to nip and tuck its architectural details. The building was resplendent despite the scaffolding clinging to the top of the tower. It is impressive to see the sheer scale of historic restoration happening to the building and property, which includes $120 million renovations to the facade, brick repointing, painting and window restoration. Updated guest rooms, refreshed public spaces, and a new conference center are also in the works.

The Homestead helped to shape the golden era of travel, when the wealthy wanted to escape from industrial cities to the Virginia mountain’s cooler climes, fresh air, and southern hospitality. Today, The Homestead continues to offer fabulous service with Southern colonial charm. The sprawling resort has 483 elegant guest rooms and suites along with casual and fine dining options and poolside food service. Sit down to a game of chess or pick up one of the hundreds of books lining the shelves of the Washington Library for a little leisure reading. The Lobby Bar will add a new Speakeasy and the movie theatre will be converted into dinner-theater style seating with a bar. We were unable to visit the Jefferson Pool as the natural warm springs pool was undergoing intricate restoration, but it just re-opened December 2022.

Summer is a great time to hit the golf courses, pools, waterslides, or have the concierge register you for outdoor activities like horseback riding, fly-fishing or shooting. Our visit was in July, so we floated the lazy river by day and slipped into the hot tub during the cooler evenings. Even during the winter months, there is no shortage of experiences like skiing, tubing, ice skating, snowboarding and snowmobiles. In fact, the Homestead’s ski resort is the first in Virginia, founded in 1959. Any time of year is a good one to pamper yourself in the adult-only spa. Read more about our Spa Experience: Sweet Serenity: The Spa at the Omni Homestead

Up the lazy river