Pernil (2024)

Pernil is the star on many Puerto Rican holiday tables. This bone-in, skin-on, picnic-cut pork shoulder is rubbed down and marinated with fragrant herbs and spices, and then slow-roasted until the meat almost falls apart. Though the pork is an unforgettable medley of garlic, oregano and citrus, the true prize is the “cuerito,” the perfumed, unctuous skin so crispy, it shatters when you bite it.

It’s one of food writer Monti Carlo’s favorite recipes to showcase during a special occasion, because most of the heavy lifting happens in the beginning, as you prepare the pork shoulder and its marinade. After that, the oven does most of the work, letting you focus on side dishes. Traditionally, pernil is served with yellow rice and pigeon peas (see related recipe), but feel free to accompany it with roasted vegetables or mashed potatoes.

Depending on how the animal was raised and its fat content, your pernil may be very tender with a pull-apart texture, or very lean and easily sliced.

When reheated, leftover pernil can be dry, so serve it with a fruit compote on top, such as fig, or repurpose it in dishes such as tacos, stuffed peppers or enchiladas.

If your pork shoulder is bigger than 4 pounds, double (or triple) the recipe for the oil and seasoning. Stick close to the recipe, but don't worry about being super precise.

Make ahead: The marinade can be prepared and refrigerated for up to 2 days in advance.

Storage: Leftover pernil can be refrigerated for up to 3 days, or tightly wrapped in plastic wrap and frozen for up to 2 months.

Where to buy: The picnic-cut bone-in pork shoulder with the skin on can be found in well-stocked grocery stores, butcher shops and Latin markets.

From food writer Monti Carlo.

Ingredients

Directions

1. Step 1

   Line a large, rimmed baking sheet with heavy-duty aluminum foil and place a wire rack over it.

2. Step 2

   In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the olive oil with the annatto (achiote) seeds and warm until the seeds begin to sizzle. Remove from the heat and let cool for about 15 minutes. Strain the oil into a glass jar (it will stain plastic) and let cool completely; discard the seeds.

3. Step 3

   Using a vegetable peeler, cut two strips of orange zest (each about 4 inches long), two of lemon and two of lime (each about 2 inches long). Juice the citrus and combine the juices.

4. Step 4

   In a small skillet over medium heat, toast the coriander, cumin and peppercorns until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to the pitcher of a blender. Add 3 tablespoons of achiote oil, 2 tablespoons of citrus juice, the cilantro stems, garlic and strips of zest and puree until smooth but spreadable. Add 1 teaspoon of the salt, the dried oregano and onion powder to the blender and mix in. If the marinade paste is too thick, add a touch more juice.

5. Step 5

   Thoroughly dry the pork shoulder and remove any stray hairs from the skin. Place your hand on one edge of the skin, and using your thumb and forefinger, pinch the edge of the skin and lift it off the meat. Use a sharp, thin-blade knife to slice between the skin and the meat, gently lifting the skin. Continue to lift the skin off the meat as the other hand slices. Slice almost to the very end of the skin, but not all the way through. You don’t want to remove it; you want to create a flap of skin that is still attached.

6. Step 6

   Using a sharp knife, puncture the pork (not the skin) at least a dozen times, piercing the meat on all sides. Rub in the marinade paste, making sure to get it into the punctures, but avoiding the skin.

7. Step 7

   Rub a little achiote oil over the skin, just to color it lightly. Sprinkle 1/2 teaspoon of salt and the baking powder over the skin and rub it in well. Be sure to use the baking powder only on the skin; if baking powder gets on the meat, the meat will become slightly bitter.

8. Step 8

   Set the pork on the rack, skin side up, and refrigerate, uncovered, for at least 4 hours and preferably overnight.

9. Step 9

   About 1 hour before you plan to roast the pork, remove it from the refrigerator. Using a towel, clean off any excess paste. Brush the pork all over with some of the achiote oil. Use as much as it takes to cover the pork in a thin film of oil, then season with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt.

10. Step 10

    Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 250 degrees. Roast for 1 hour, then rotate the baking sheet, front to back. Using a pastry or basting brush, lightly brush the skin with more achiote oil. Roast for 1 more hour. Rotate the pan front to back again and brush achiote oil on the skin once more. (If you run out of achiote oil, you can use olive oil.) Repeat for the next 4 hours, rotating the baking sheet and brushing with the oil every hour or until the pork’s internal temperature registers 160 degrees on an instant-read thermometer and a fork slides into the meat with little resistance. Remove from the oven and tent with lightly oiled piece of foil.

11. Step 11

    Increase the oven temperature to 475 degrees. When the oven has been at 475 degrees for at least 5 minutes, set aside the foil and return the baking sheet to the oven. Rotate the sheet pan front to back every 5 minutes, until the skin has blistered and sounds hollow when tapped with the back of a wooden spoon, 15 to 20 minutes total.

12. Step 12

    Remove the baking sheet from the oven, tent the pork again and let the meat rest for at least 10 minutes before carving and serving.

13. Step 13

    An earlier version of this recipe referred to baking powder as baking soda in once instance. It has been corrected.

From food writer Monti Carlo.

Tested by Ann Maloney.

Published November 17, 2021

Related Recipes

• Arroz con Gandules