Everything You Need To Get Started With Backyard Chickens (2024)

No matter how scrappy or fancy you go, the coop doesn’t need heating or electricity, but it must be able to keep wind, rain, and predators out at night while still having some sort of constant ventilation. It also needs to be spacious enough for your flock to avoid factory-farm living conditions (depending who you ask, you’ll want two to four square feet of coop space per bird).

The inside of your coop should have at least one nesting box per four chickens, and about 10 inches of roost (horizontal pole) space per bird for sleeping. And if you don’t want your chickens free-ranging around your yard all day, you’ll also want some sort of enclosed chicken run attached to the coop. For the run, allow for eight to 10 square feet of space per chicken.

Unless you’re really handy, I recommend buying a prefabricated coop or kit that comes with the necessary fixtures, including a little drop door to keep your gals safe from hungry predators at night (sadly, I know all too well how merciless city raccoons can be). If youare handy, Etsy is packed with plans for building your own modern coop.

Bedding

Provide a soft spot for the gals to lay their eggs by filling the nesting boxes with chicken-safe bedding like pine shavings or straw. And unless you’re waterproofing your coop and plan to hose it out every day, you can use the same bedding for the floor. It makes for softer landing when chickens jump down from their roost, keeps the coop smelling fresh and clean, and in the winter it can even help to provide a little extra warmth (with the right compost management). Pine shavings and straw are the most common coop floor coverings, but some people also use sand as a base or on its own.

Food and feeders for laying hens

Most chickens start laying eggs when they’re around 20 weeks old. Make sure they’re getting all the nutrients they need with layer feed, made especially for egg-laying hens. You can get it in crumble or pellet form, which is really a matter of preference for you and your gals (I prefer pellets because they’re less messy). Even if you plan to free-range your chickens full-time, it’s a good idea to supplement with layer feed.

Speaking of supplements, there are some that can help keep your flock strong and healthy, including crushed oyster shells that provide calcium for strong eggshells. Cracked corn is a good addition in the winter since their bodies have to work harder to digest it, and no matter the weather chickens love little treats like dried mealworms.

This is also the time to upgrade to full-size feeders and waterers, though the size you need will depend on the size of your flock. Unless your chickens are free-ranging, plan on each one eating about a quarter pound of feed each day.

Chickens

Last, but certainly not least, you need to get chickens themselves. And yes, you can order baby chicks online. Though it seems kind of absurd and a little scary, hatchlings are overnighted in a ventilated box with some sort of food and hydration, as well as heat packs if necessary. Receiving a shipment of chicks the first time is an amazing experience—and you definitely need to be home to intercept the package so you can get the babies into the brooder right away.

If you want to skip the brooder and get to the egg-laying part faster, you can order pullets, which are six-week-old hens. Just keep in mind they probably won’t be as comfortable around humans as chicks you raise from hatchlings. They’re also often harder to get.

Before you order all the pretty chickens (believe me, I know how tempting it is!) make sure you’re getting the right breed for your climate. Some chickens are especially cold-hardy and can handle temperatures far below 0ºF while others aren’t as well-suited to cold weather. In the Midwest I’m partial to Barred Plymouth Rocks, Orpingtons, and Wyandottes.